From Village to City

Alas we have made it to Port Vila, the capital and biggest city in Vanuatu. Of course, Port Vila is not much more than a quaint town, but with wi-fi internet, supermarkets, bars, restaurants, hotels and cars, it is feeling pretty busy to me. This is also due to the fact that we came from Erromango, which is considered to be the most remote and least developed island in the country.

Aside from the extremely rolly anchorage at Port Narvin, Erromango was a super cool place. Not many people come to Erromango - there is no tourist infrastructure, no cell phones, no cars, no stores... not much of anything but a little village with two schools. As we took the dinghy into shore to meet the locals all the children of the village were lined up on the beach waving at us. When we came ashore the two chiefs of the village introduced themselves, Chief Joseph and Chief Andre. They were very happy to have visitors and, as we were one of five boats in the anchorage, they told us this is the most boats they have ever had there at one time.

A visit to the school in Erromango.

There were about ten of us yachties who came in as a group and we were led to the school for a welcoming ceremony. The school was a run-down cinder block building with wooden desks and benches, open windows and a tin roof. The room we were in was packed with 50 or so students aged from about 5-12. Our group was asked to sit in chairs at the front of the room, and I couldn't help but feel like I was on display as 100 eyes stared at me with intense curiosity and smiles, but quickly looked away when I made eye contact.

We were all asked to introduce ourselves, and after saying our names and where we came from the school sang us a welcome song. It was beautiful. The children sang at the top of their lungs, filling the building with a chorus of happy and strong voices. After a few more songs, presenting them with some school supplies and a quick speech by the principal, the teachers invited us to go around and talk with the kids. This proved difficult as the kids were so shy they would giggle and run away whenever I tried to ask them a question.

Finally I went outside and sat down at a bench. Slowly two kids came and sat down next to me, followed by three more, and soon I was surrounded by 30 kids. The only question they would actually answer was, "What is your name?" - if they could keep from laughing. Other than that, they answered yes to every question: "How old are you?" Yes. "Do you have brothers and sisters?" Yes. "Is the sky blue?" Yes. "Is the sky red?" Yes.

Seeing as how our conversation was not going to well, I resorted to giving high-fives to the kids around me. They thought it was hilarious. A few kids sitting behind me would quickly poke my hair and then pretend they had not touched me, but were curious so I took my hair out of my ponytail and told them they could touch it. Instantly I had twenty hands in my hair. They shrieked with laughter as they pulled my hair over my eyes and made pig tails. I never knew straight brown hair was so funny or entertaining.

Then the kids decided I should have braids, so they called in an older girl - apparently an expert - and she set to give me corn rows. Of course she had helpers, other kids who would hold a portion of my hair or whatever... and only after she finished did it occurred to me that she had probably never braided straight hair before, let alone touched any. I was glad to provide the opportunity.

Getting my hair did.

After my hair appointment, Chiefs Joseph and Andre wanted to take us on a hike to the prospective site for a cell tower they are lobbying the government for. Mom, Dad and I were not exactly prepared to hike the highest peak on the mountain - we were in flip flops and had no food or water, but what the hell, so we took off. About an hour into the hike Chief Joseph was concerned that we did not have water so he disappeared into the jungle to look for coconuts.

After two and a half hours we arrived at the peak of the mountain. It was a fairly aggressive hike through the jungle but made much more difficult due to the fact that in the past three days I had not walked more than 30 feet because we had been on the boat. Regardless, we made it and were greeted with a fresh coconut at the top. Just as I was feeling accomplished and fit, three men and two women arrived at the summit, each carrying a 40 liter jug of water or a bag of cement mix. There are 1,000 bags of cement and hundreds of jugs of water that have to be carried up the mountain to build the cell tower and all the villagers chip in to carry them up. I could barely make it up just carrying myself. These people are boss.

The trip back down the mountain was much easier and, after a quick birthday party for Dad - complete with cupcakes and cheesecake - we all decided to bug out of the (extremely rolly) anchorage and head out for an overnight passage to Port Vila. I decided to sail with Mark so he could get some sleep during the night, and we had a beautiful passage under a full moon to Vila.

We arrived in Vila in the morning, went out for breakfast, stared wide-eyed at all the stuff in the stores and dodged cars driving down the two way streets (fancy). Port Vila is a funny place but this post has already gone on for way too long, so we will save that for another day. We now have internet, albeit very slow and testy internet, but I will do my best to go back and post pictures. Thanks for reading!
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At 10/1/2012 10:07 PM (utc) Rutea's position was 17°44.69'S 168°18.75'E

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