The Final Countdown

One of my favorite places in the world: the cave at Porto Selvaggio 

Life at Casa Giulia has been delightfully — if not a little weirdly quiet these days. A few guests have come and gone, but with Giulia and her family back in Lecce, Laura and I are left to our own devices. Don’t get me wrong, I’m still having a great time, but sometimes it’s hard to stay motivated to weed olive trees or pick up trash around the farm when it seems like nobody else gives a shit. 

Scoping out potential surf spots for winter time south of Gallipoli 

Fortunately, Giulia’s mom, Teresa, lent us her Volkswagen convertible Beetle, so Laura and I have made it a point to get out every day to go for a swim, hike, or see a new place. It is really special to have so much time here, because there are so many nooks and crannies and bad freaking ass caves to explore, we’ve not been at a loss for things to do. 

Adventures with Willow

For example, the other day we took Willow (the dog) to Porto Selvaggio. He doesn’t get out much, and was terrified when we shoved him into the back of the car (who knows where he went the last time he was in a car), but was ecstatic when he realized he was going to the beach. We took him on a good scramble up to the torre, to the point where I had to lift him up rocks, but he did great. While we were there, I wanted to get some pics of my favorite cave, in an attempt to show you a sliver of the epic beauty of the place. Laura trusted me enough to swim in the cave with her phone, and so voila — jump off this rock and swim under it into this magical place. 

The cave

Entrance to the cave 

The other day Laura and I headed south of Gallipoli to check out a stretch of coastline, and took a nice long walk on the rocky beach. We found a cool pirate looking bar and restaurant but it had closed for the season. Things are getting more and more quiet around here. 

The “marina” in Castro

Yesterday, Laura and I talked Teresa into joining us on a trip to the Adriatic coast. Neither of us had been to the east coast of the heel of the boot, and we wanted to check it out, although we were convinced that the Ionian side is better, because what can beat it? But after driving along the stunning coastline with dramatic cliffs and beach towns that reminded me of the Amalfi coast, we both reconsidered our loyalty to the Ionian. 

The marina in Otranto — just doing my research…

We saw the Grotta della Poesia and had a nice lunch in Otranto, but my favorite place was Castro. There was a cute little “marina” and seaside bars, with a historic center and a Byzantine church up on the cliffs. Apparently Hannibal came through and destroyed the town in 2 A.D. or whatever and the thought of even trying to comprehend the deep and complex history of the place is over my head. It is a rich place in history, resources, and nature. 

There are also tons of caves on the Adriatic side. I’ve become very fond of caves, if you couldn’t tell. Unfortunately we ran out of time and couldn’t explore the caves on our little day trip, but if I have enough time in the next three days (hah) I would love to go back. On the horizon I could see the mountains of Albania, which was comforting because I realized how close my next stop it. 

Yes, I’m going to Albania. It is a quick 8 hour ferry ride across the Adriatic Sea, and it made sense as my next logical stop. But didn’t want to wander around Albania alone, so I contacted another Workaway host and they asked me to come help on their farm, help them host a yoga retreat, and then at the end of my trip, stay for a writers retreat. How synchronistic, eh? Maybe writing all these blog posts will have a purpose after all. 

I mean, we will see how it goes. I don’t really know what I’m getting myself into, but such is traveling. I have been feeling a bit itchy to get some surfing in, but all in all I have been pleasantly surprised with how well I’ve handled not surfing in forever. I’ve also been spending a lot of time in spectacular water, which helps. And, I can surf at home. For now I’m trying to push myself in new directions (literally, east, ha ha). 

Still coveting thy neighbor’s grapes 

As for now, I’m enjoying my last few days at Casa Giulia. The evenings are quiet.  Laura and I play music, make dinner, drink Giulia’s nice wine, and have pulled out a 1,000 piece puzzle that will be a race to finish before I leave. I have three rows of olive trees left to finish, which I am determined to do, if only for my own satisfaction. I’m also hoping to finish Anna Karenina before I leave so I can have a fresh start and be rid of the mess of a love story that is that saga. Lofty goals. 

Road Trip

Matera

After playing host for a very full on week, I felt the need to get a little space from Casa Giulia. Laura had always wanted to go to the ancient city of Matera, and Giulia was kind enough to lend us her car for a few days, so Sunday afternoon the two of us set out on a little road trip adventure. 

Matera is one of the oldest, continuously inhabited cities on earth, with evidence of human activity from the Paleolithic era. It’s not hard to imagine — one looks out from the city of stacked houses and buildings toward the hillside on the other side of the ravine, and it is pockmarked with hundreds of caves that really look quite cozy. 

Upon arrival, Laura and I bundled up and went out to see the city. Neither of us are big planners, so we sauntered around and looked at the beautiful views of the city as the sun set and the lights came on. As it cooled off, I realized that I haven’t been in weather under 65 degrees in months, and am woefully unprepared for any kind of cold, so put warm clothes shopping on my to do list. 

The original Rock Church

We meandered through the ancient streets of the old neighborhood, which felt like an ancient middle eastern city (save all the churches), with roofs of houses creating the terrace for the house above it, square windows and narrow alley ways. I guess at some point Matera was inhabited by Byzantines and Ottomans and basically everyone. Apparently in the 1950’s, the living conditions in the old neighborhood were so squalid that the Italian government evicted everyone and cleaned up the city. They did a nice job, and expanded the city. 

After visiting the lower neighborhood, we got dinner and walked around the upper, more modern part of Matera. We both figured it would be like most ancient walled cities, with a nice old town and not much else, but the other neighborhoods of Matera were surprisingly modern and diverse. We found what was the closest thing to a gay bar — LGBTQ friendly — as they call it, had a drink, and called it a night. 

Fountain of amore and the rock church in the background

The next day we set off early for sight seeing. But again, as neither of us are planners, we kind of walked around in mildly hung over circles, until tourist attractions started to open. We went into a church that was carved completely out of a stone mountain, the first evidence of its existence being in 1036. The walls had frescoes of saints painted in the 11th century, but really the stunning nature of the church was that it was truly part of the mountain. 

Super cool ancient cistern

After the church, we visited the main cistern of the city, which was very gratifying because I’ve been trying to get into a cistern since before I arrived in Naples, and could finally check one off the list. That, and I’m always interested in how cities maintained their water and other natural resources. 

Another cistern pic because I was really amped about it. Side note - I imagine this place is packed in summer. Score another one for traveling southern Italy in September 

It’s not thaaat far to all those tiny little caves, right?

By this time, Laura and I felt pretty good about our visit to Matera, but we agreed that we needed to go inside one of those old ass caves before we left. We drove to the other side of the ravine and walked in the general direction of the caves, which ended up being a lot farther than we realized. On the trail we met hikers with poles, hiking shoes, water, and all the other things you should bring on a hike, so we were a bit unprepared. Yet, we found the caves, including another church carved into the hillside, allegedly containing the eyeballs of the patron saint of eyesight. Super cool, kinda spooky. After our much longer than anticipated hike, we felt like we had really seen (and felt) Matera, so we got back in the car headed south. 

Just some casual Ancient Greek ruins in Taranto 

We decided to stop in Taranto on the way back to Casa Giulia, because it’s one of the bigger cities in Puglia, so why not. We walked around the old city, complete with Ancient Greek ruins of the temple of Poseidon. In spite of the fact that Taranto is a port city with a sparkly blue bay, the city is a little darker and edgier than Lecce or other towns in the area. I liked it - it felt real and livable. 

Actually, Laura and I had probably our most authentic Italian experience in Taranto, that crisp fall afternoon. Naturally, around lunch time we were hungry for lunch, so we stopped at a little cafe on a cute street. Laura asked if we could sit outside and the server said yes, but sit on this side of the building because a funeral procession was going to go by. 

We ordered our food and chatted while we waited for our food, as people do. We heard the funeral procession getting closer, as the music and wails got louder. Right before the 10 piece band playing New Orleans esque funeral music crossed our alleyway, our server came out and dropped our steaming bowls of pasta on the table, quickly skirted the procession and disappeared. Laura and I looked at each other. You can’t exactly start eating your hot, delicious pasta while people are marching by, sobbing and wailing. 

It was so uncomfortable that I started to giggle. And then the pallbearers carrying the casket walked by and I kind of lost it. I know it’s inappropriate to exploit someone’s grief, but the whole scene was so perfectly Italian that I somewhat composed myself and snapped a quick selfie. Note the coffin in the background. In spite of the awkward situation, after the procession passed, Laura and I both enjoyed our pastas immensely. 

Spending as much time as I can in this beautiful water before it is time to move on

Once again, as the sun sank low in the sky, we headed south through olive and almond orchards, vineyards that have passed their prime for the year, toward a sun that has begun to set a little farther south in the sky. The days are still warm, but the nights are cool and the mornings are chilly. The sun has more of a golden glow to it, even in the middle of the day, and the sea has already cooled down a few degrees. September has absolutely flown by, and I can’t believe I only have just over a week left here. It’s easy to get a little melancholy, but I want to continue to enjoy my precious time here, finish my work stay strong, and get excited for the final month of my adventures. 

Casa Corie

A great thing about touring with other people is that they can snap a few photos 

 If you had told me that ten days into my work/stay that I would be running a BnB and leading a week long, “Southern Italy Experience” I would have laughed. I have no business doing either of those things. However, when there’s nobody else to do it…

Giulia and her family moved back her house in Lecce to start the school year and live the big city life. There were only two guests slotted to stay for the following week - one of whom did a work trade for a free stay, and another who had done a yoga retreat here a few years back and was a returning client. Giulia assured Laura and me that it would be an easy week. She would come over to hang with the guests after the kids went to school and Giacomo would cook dinner for them every night. All I had to do was serve breakfast and help with dinners if I wanted. Sounded good. 

Except that life happens. The morning the two guests arrived, Giulia informed me that she and Giacomo were breaking up, and that he wouldn’t be cooking them dinners. So the guests and I could just cook dinner together and it would be super fun. Also, she wouldn’t be around as much as she planned, so the guests were going to rent a car. Except they don’t drive stick shift, so would I be willing to chauffeur them around all week?

Um. Sure?

I mean, I had wanted to get out and see the country for sure, and I guess this was a great way to make it happen, but… it just seemed like a lot. And it was. It was also fun, but whew, it was a lot. In the end, I felt weirdly responsible for the guests enjoyment, which naturally fell short because I’m not an expert on the area, I don’t speak Italian, and they had been promised an all inclusive, authentic southern Italian experience. It certainly was authentic, but not in the ways any of us could have dreamed. 

First off, when they arrived, and for the next two days, there was no running water. The pump in the well had to be fixed, and while it ultimately was, and the guests were cool enough about it, I bore the brunt of their witty and endless jokes about how nice it would be to have a shower, and, does this part of the experience cost extra? 

The main entertainment in Alberobello is shopping for cute trinkets 

Second, the fact that there were no organized activities meant that I had to come up with them. To be fair, I didn’t have to, but what else was I supposed to do? One guest really wanted to see Trulli, little hobbit looking houses common in southern Italy, because she saw them on Instagram. So Laura planned a really nice itinerary for us to follow to see the Trulli and check out a few nice towns in the area. 

On Tuesday morning, after serving them a quick breakfast, the three of us set out in the little rental car and drive to Alberobello, home of the Trulli. We found the town (and parking!) without getting lost or hitting anything (go me!). We walked around the town of Alberobello which was very cute and quaint, with little circular huts everywhere that were peasant homes back in the earlier times. I did a quick scan of the Wikipedia page while we stopped for a coffee, but didn’t really get a chance to dig into the history of the place or the buildings, but it kind of had Disneyland vibes. Nevertheless, it was interesting and after a nice walk and lunch, we were ready to hit the road again. 

Harmony of its shapes if I’ve ever seen it 

Our next stop was Locorotondo, another medieval, walled city with mazes of narrow, cobblestone lined streets and more whitewashed houses. Per Wikipedia: “Locorotondo is listed as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy and it has been awarded the Orange Flag of the Touring Club of Italy due to the harmony of its shapes and the accessibility of the old town, as it can be easily visited on foot.” The foundation of the city dates back to 1000 AD and the area has been inhabited since the 7th century BC. Cute and ancient? Winner in my book. 

Streets of Ostuni

Our third stop was Ostuni. We had considered bailing on the rest of Laura’s itinerary, but the first two places were so great we decided to continue. Ostuni is another medieval city where cars aren’t meant to drive but do anyway, and I felt like I was going to scrape the sides of the car on the house walls, or at least take off a side mirror, neither of which happened. The old walled city of Ostuni was beautiful and old and had a view of the Adriatic ocean, so naturally we walked around, had a drink at a cafe, and then headed home. It looked like there was a cool archeological museum with mummies or something in one of the churches, but the girls didn’t seem interested in going, so I put it on the list for another time. 

I drove us home through rolling hills of vineyards, almond and olive orchards, as the sun sank toward the horizon. One of the guests requested a sunset swim, so although I was maxed out with driving and socializing, I stopped at a beach near Casa Giulia for a quick dip before we got home. One aspect of our day trip that I appreciated was the exquisite weather and timing. The weather was cool but sunny, and while particularly Alberobello could have felt like Disneyland, it was fairly uncrowded and enjoyable. Score one for southern Italy in September. 

Score another for southern Italy in September - warm water and no crowds 

The next day I took the guests to Gallipoli, one because it was close and easy and two, because one girl loooved Christmas and I knew there was a Christmas store there she would like. You can just give me the award for best tour guide ever, now. After that we got panini and had lunch on the beach. The other guest looooved jumping off the rocks into the water, so after Gallipoli we went to Santa Caterina and found some great rocks to jump off. 

The whole experience was pretty ridiculous, but all in all, fun. There were some awkward moments and by the end I was super burnt out, but I think I managed to keep all (ok most of) my snarky comments to myself. I don’t think I was cut out for the hosting industry. That said, both guests were grateful for my tour guiding and companionship, and I was happy to provide it. We had fun dinners together and got to see some cool places. In the end, one of the guests tipped me $200 and the other bought me a pizza. 

In the Heel of the Boot

Ah southern Italy, so enchanting, so romantic, so charming, so fascinating. Yet, just like any wonderful place, it is not without it’s fair share of issues, be it racism, infrastructure issues or the mafia. 

Basilica di Santa Croce

Last Tuesday was my “day off” so Laura and I went to Lecce. Lecce is known as the Florence of the South, but still relatively off the beaten track. Land is still refreshingly affordable, so buy in while you can (yes, I’ve had an aha moment, but we will get to that later).The walled city of Lecce was built by the Romans back a long time ago, because while it feels like it is out in the middle of nowhere, the city was an important trading center between the Ionian and Adriatic seas. Plus, there was an underground river, so fresh was abundant. The Greeks lived around the area before the Romans but this is the extent of my knowledge of ancient Italian history. 

After a heavy Italian lunch and a nap in the park, I dragged Laura to the Jewish museum with me. The museum opened in 2016. Prior to that, it was an Italian restaurant. Prior to that, up until the 15th century, it was a synagogue, which was razed in a pogrom at the behest of Charles V. He then had the imposing Basilica di Santa Croce built on top of the Jewish neighborhood to erase any evidence that there was once a thriving Jewish population in Lecce. Par for the course, really. 

Bad picture of the ancient mikvah/more recent wine cellar

During our 25 minute guided tour through the museum, we were shown the ancient mikvahs where Jewish women bathed, in a cool underground room. The water in these baths came from the subterranean springs, which sounded delightful for a dip. We learned that the stairs down into the baths had been torn out by the Italian restaurant owner because he used the ancient mikvahs as a wine cellar, and they got in his way. I couldn’t think of anything possibly more Italian than that. 

After a fascinating (in my opinion) and slightly depressing visit to the Jewish museum, Laura and I decided we needed a cold beer. We landed at a spot that was open at the ungodly hour of 5pm (still siesta time) and had a beer. Then Laura’s friend who lives in Lecce joined us, so we had another beer. Then Giulia and her friend joined us, so we had another beer. And then another just for good measure. 

I’ve gotten into a nice rhythm at Casa Giulia, although things change pretty quickly, so who longs how long it will last. I’m responsible for serving breakfasts in the morning, so I wake up around 7am and have a coffee before the mayhem. Then I make coffees for the guests, cut fruit and bread, and put frozen cornetti (croissants) in the oven. Then I set the tables and serve people as they get up. 

Before

After

After everyone is fed, I eat breakfast while Laura clears the tables and cleans up. Then I head out to the olive trees. I’ve worked up to the point where I can do about 12 trees in about an hour and a half. When I’m tired or over it or whatever (the lack of oversight is delightful), I have the afternoon to do whatever I want. One day Laura and I rode bikes to Nardò, but my tire went flat so we had to walk our bikes home. Other days, if someone has a car, we go to the beach and explore the coastline of the Ionian Sea. Some days I hang by the pool and read or write these silly little blog posts. If there is a dinner, I help serve dinner (which also includes eating what Giacomo makes and drinking wine, so it’s all pretty fun).

Happy camper

Yesterday, Laura’s friend from Lecce and her husband Francesco, who was born and raised in the heel of the boot, took us to Porto Selvaggio. I wasn’t thrilled for another beach day (I mean, how much time can you spend at the beach?), but I wanted to get away from Casa Giulia and grateful for a ride. When we arrived at Porto Selvaggio, I realized that it wasn’t just another beach. Porto Selvaggio is one of those stunning little nooks with limestone rock that creates a pool-like effect for swimming in the turquoise aqua blue water. Not only that, but above the beach is a 14th century lookout tower. Stunningly beautiful natural history and geology AND cool human history? Damn. 

Francesco, our friend and local tour guide, took us for a swim. “You want to see a cave?” He asked. “Hell yeah, let’s go,” I said enthusiastically. We swam along the rocky shoreline to a place where people were jumping off a rock maybe 10’ high. It was fairly windy so there was a bit of chop, but Francesco swam into the rocks and disappeared under where people were jumping. He didn’t appear to bash his head, so I followed. 

There was much more headspace than appeared, and as I followed him I entered a limestone cave with neon blue water illuminated by shafts of sunlight coming in from above. Pirates of the Caribbean could have been filmed here. In fact, I wouldn’t have been the least bit surprised to some Ancient Greek gold coins in there. Although the water was warm, the place gave me goosebumps. It’s a good thing I don’t have Instagram, because it is exactly the kind of place that would get blown up real quick on social media. 

I was so grateful at being shown such a wonderful place that I bought a round of beers for our crew, although the beers were €2 each, so it didn’t break the bank. In the evening, we all hiked up to the tower and got beautiful panoramic views of the coastline. On the way, I noticed a plaque for a woman, Renata Fonte, and asked Francesco what it said. 

Francesco proceeded to tell me Renata’s story. She was on the Nardò city council, and back in the 80’s was staunchly opposed to a planned subdivision and urbanization of Porto Selvaggio. She loved the area and fought against the development of land and subsequent environmental crimes. At 33, while on a hike, she was murdered. Soon after, the people who killed her, as well as the SOB who ordered her murder — the guy next in line for her seat on the city council (a mafioso) — were all arrested. Ironically and tragically, it was her murder that brought awareness to the fight against the development, and the land was protected in perpetuity. Renata gave the ultimate sacrifice for the protection of this incredible place, and today people come from all over the world to appreciate and enjoy it. 

Whew ok that got dark. Although it may seem like it outwardly, Italy isn’t all blue skies and delicious pizza. A few days ago, the water stopped working at Casa Giulia. Apparently, the pump inside the well broke, so we’ve been jumping in the pool for showers and using pool water to flush the toilets. Fortunately, there is plenty of bottled water for drinking, but the pile of dirty dishes in the sink is piling up, and sooner or later a dip in the pool won’t cut it anymore. I hope it’s fixed soon - as do our guests who have had a good sense of humor about it, but probably won’t tomorrow. 

Casa Giulia 2

Coveting thy neighbor’s vines.. again

Ah, life at Casa Giulia. It is really quite serene, with the wind blowing through the long grasses and chestnut trees, birds chirping, cows mooing in the distance. Until Dino starts screaming because someone has displeased him (how dare they), or someone starts yelling because that’s how Italians have a calm conversation. 

My (current) life’s work

Yesterday Giulia, Giacomo, and Vanessa returned from camping. In the morning I sat down with Giulia to discuss my work. “So um, weeding these olive trees is really hard. I can only really work at it for an hour or so, and it takes me 15 minutes per tree,”I told Giulia. Her response was not to worry, and that she could always find me other work. I appreciated her laid back response. “I mean, I like this work, I’m just not sure I’m doing it right. Could Giacomo come take a look and give me some tips?”

Giulia then proceeded to tell me that after the last Workawayer bailed right in the beginning of the busy season, Giacomo lost faith in Workawayers. Plus, weeding the olive trees is really hard work and he didn’t think I could do it. But she would see if he had time in his busy day to come advise me. 

Nothing lights a fire under my ass like someone telling me I can’t do something, especially a man who thinks I can’t do a “man’s” work, so I headed out to the field and started tearing shit up. I thought about how when I completed the project, I would thank him profusely for all his help and support. After 20 minutes or so, Giacomo came out. “Very good work,” he said. “No so much,” and showed me that the area I was hoeing around the trees was too big. I instantly liked him. Dammit. All I need is a little pat on the back and to be told to do less work, and you’re a winner in my eyes. Upon understanding that I only needed to hoe a small circle around each tree, and not 5 feet, the idea of actually finishing the 300 trees became much more ascertainable. Plus, I felt my muscles getting stronger and less fatigued, and the callouses in my hands building, so I left the field for the day feeling pretty good. 

I don’t think it gets much more Italian than this 

Further cementing his place as a good dude in my eyes, Giacomo made a delicious mushroom risotto for lunch, with mushrooms he had foraged when they were camping. We all sat down as a family to eat, complete with a bottle of cold white wine. I could get used to this lifestyle. It’s very romantic in the pastoral sense — olive groves and family lunches with no fewer than three generations, excellent, locally grown food and wine... 

Santa Maria al Bagno - One of a hundred charming beach towns dotting the Ionian Sea 

After lunch it was decided that we would go to the beach, so after cleaning up and an espresso, we headed out to the beach as a convoy of two cars. We drove along the coastline of the Ionian Sea, which is the arch of the heel of the to the toe of the boot of Italy. What an incredibly special place. The rocky coastline was dotted with little seaside towns, sandy beaches with cafes and beach chairs for rent, gelato shops, pine forests, Ancient Greek and Roman ruins… like, wow. The water was crystal clear and warm. I’m so grateful to be able to spend time here and get to know this part of the world. 

In the evening, Giacomo asked me if I would want to harvest olives for olive oil with him. “No today. Post tomorrow.” I think he’s warming up to me, and I to him. We walked around the fields and he showed me which trees we will harvest and which types of olives they were. I had to have Giulia translate, but we set a plan to harvest olives the next day. 

The kitchen at Casa Giulia, where if you’re not careful, you will contribute to the patriarchy 

Things at Casa Giulia are pretty relaxed, but was going to get busy next week, so the next morning Giulia and I agreed that I would take the day off, to be ready for the work week ahead. The olives would have to wait. Laura was hitching a ride to Lecce with Teresa, and I asked to tag along. Before we left, I made breakfast for myself and then started to do all the dishes in the sink, because at my age you can’t just do your own dishes, especially as a guest in someone else’s home. While I was washing dishes, Giulia came into the kitchen. “Are you washing Giacomo’s dishes?” She asked me. “Huh? I’m just washing the dishes in the sink,” I replied, slightly bewildered. There are 7 people living here and I don’t keep tabs on who’s dishes they are. “You’re contributing to the partiarchy!” Giulia said in her emphatic Italian way. “He will never learn to do his dishes if you wash them for him!” It has since become a running joke to tease anyone who is doing the dishes that they are contributing to the patriarchy. Except if it was Giacomo, but I haven’t seen him do any dishes. 

Life at Casa Giulia

Just hoeing it up

The next day, Giulia and I made breakfast for the guests, and then she, Giacomo (who magically reappeared), and Vanessa packed up to go camping for the next few days. I was relieved they were leaving because I felt that one, I could get the inside scoop from Laura who has been here a month and a half, and two, I could figure out a rhythm for how I want to spend my days. 

Before they left, and while still on the “clock,” Vanessa pleaded with me to play with her. “Dude, I’m supposed to be working,” I told her. “Whatever, my mom would want you to play with me instead.” She is an amazing 8 year old, who speaks perfect English with a California accent, as well as perfect Italian. Lucky girl. Alas, Vanessa was right, and I have come to realize that for Giulia, her family’s happiness comes first. So Vanessa and I jumped on the trampoline and played hide and seek until they were ready to leave. The grounds at Casa Giulia are pretty epic for hide and seek. 

After the trio left, the house was significantly quieter, and Teresa (Giulia’s mom), Laura (the other Workawayer) and I let go a collective sigh of relief. The only noisy one was Dino, Giulia’s 1 year old son that was left with us. He is a really cute kid and happy for the most part, and had babysitters lined up every afternoon, so Teresa, Laura and I made plans. The first afternoon, we went to the local beach, about a 10 minute drive from the BnB. Fancy a swim in the Ionian Sea? Yes, sounds nice, quite nice. 

The three of us cooked dinner together, drank wine, shared music and swapped stories. Teresa told us about doing MDMA with Alexander Shulgin at Timothy Leary’s house in the Hollywood hills, and hitchhiking from Mexico City to Machu Picchu back in the 60’s. She’s hella cool, and an unexpected friend. She lives in Lecce but I hope she stays with us the whole time. Plus, she has a car so the three of us have been piling in her little Beetle convertible and getting out to explore the heel of the boot. Although Teresa has seen it all, Laura has been working pretty hard and now that it has quieted down (perfect timing for me to arrive haha), Teresa is more than happy to show us around. 

Gayllipoli

Yesterday, we went to Gallipoli, not the famous WWI site, but a charming seaside village with a nice port and an apparently existing gay scene, so much so that its nickname is Gayllipoli. Laura and I will have to check that one out on our own time. 

As for the actual work, my main job (in addition to serving breakfast) is to weed the base of maybe 300 olive trees. I haven’t counted, but I will be impressed if I finish it in a month. After trying a few different methods, I figured using a hoe is the best way. You can imagine the jokes I’ve made. The work is super physically taxing, so yesterday I did 4 trees and today 5. My goal is to be able to do 10 in a day, but I’ll have to work up to it. I already have huge blisters on my hands. But I’ll build up callouses and stamina, and intend to leave southern Italy super fit. 

Old man Dino trapped in a baby’s body

Because I can only work in the field for about an hour before my arms start to shake and I’m afraid I’ll take my toe off with the hoe, I’ve been helping Teresa with Dino. He is a stout little kid, nearly as round as he is tall. He doesn’t talk but babbles a lot, but his favorite words are patate (potato) and coco, which is his word for cookie. His indulgent Nonas (grandmas) give him a cookie whenever he asks, which he usually ends up feeding to the dog. Someday he will be perfectly fluent in English and Italian, but for now it is super cute gibberish. I think he is an old man trapped in a baby’s body, because every time he sits down anywhere, he says, “Ahhhhh.”

My other favorite thing about Casa Giulia is all the food that grows here. Not only are there 300 olive trees, but there are almonds, chestnuts, plums, peaches, pears, pomegranates, apricots, mulberries, and many more. The neighboring vineyards are chock full of ripe grapes, waiting to be harvested. After being in such urban settings, it feels really good to get back to the land. And spend time with kids. I’m grateful for my time in Hawaii, which taught me how to farm as well as what to expect living with a one year old. So far so good.